My inaugural visit to the Coniston Fells was long overdue. As I sometimes do I underestimated the wonder of the unknown. Granted these may not be the very tallest of the Lakeland Fells but what they may lack in metres they make up for in variety and beauty. A visit to every Nuttall in this range is possible in a day-walk and it is a fantastic day out.
Everything was fair in-spate. The waterfalls on Church Beck were fair thundering
Miners Bridge
The Coppermines Valley
When the walk up alongside Church Beck opens up into The Coppermines Valley I instantly fell in love with the place. I adored the river lazily snaking along the flat valley-bottom, the hostel and cottages in the distance looked so inviting. Mining history and natural beauty combine here to create a world of fascination. I'd love to live here.
The Old Man and Brim Fell
Magnificent views towards Langdale with Scafell on the left
Looking over from Wetherlam to my next objective, Swirl How with Great Carrs on the right
The climb to Wetherlam isn't a bad one by all accounts, and whilst the initial pull out of the Coppermines Valley is stiff enough, the grade relents once you are above 600m. It feels like a cross-country walk with some fairly flat sections and allows plenty of time to take in the magnificent views towards the central and Eastern Fells. A couple of fell runners slowly gained me, I met them again at the summit. Wetherlam is a fantastic fell and sports fabulous views which I enjoyed with measure, as the wind was particularly bitter on the unsheltered summit, a view which was shared by my fellrunning colleagues.
At this moment I made the ever-foolish decision that I new better than to check the guide-book and on looking over to Swirl Hows I decided this was so blatantly my next objective that I needn't seek any further counsel on the matter. I joined the obvious path and made way down towards Swirl Hause, and on up the rather excellent, and borderline scrambly ascent up Prison Band.
Sadly I hadn't well-enough familiarised myself with John and Anne Nuttall's route. Little-beknownst to me at the time I passed within metres of Black Sails, another of the Nuttalls on my way down to the hause. I only realised my mistake once I had nearly reached the summit of Swirl Hows. This was a fair blow as my objective was to visit every Nuttall in The Coniston Fells, but to go back now would have added considerably to an already long route and potentially jeopardised the completion of the round. I consoled myself with the knowledge that there was fantastic wild-camping to be had on the tarns of the southern shoulder of Wetherlam, furthermore I needed to explore the history of the Coppermines Valley. I knew I would be back soon enough and would bag Black Sails at that point.
Looking back over to Wetherlam
From Swirl Hows, looking over to The Old Man and Brim Fell on centre-left, with Dow Crag on the right
Wetherlam from Swirl Hows
Great Carrs
Looking from Great Carrs to Swirl Hows
Top of Broad Slack with The Old Man, Brim Fell and Dow Crag beyond
Wetherlam, Swirl Hows, Great Carrs and Grey Friar are the fells of preference if views to the Southern and Central Fells. Baggin Grey Friars involved a little out-and-back detour but nothing overwhelming and worth it for the magnificent views towards Harter Fell, Eskdale and the Sca Fells.
The Old Man and Dow Crag from Grey Friar
Eskdale and The Sca Fells from Grey Friar
A narrow trod leads round from the col (Fairfield) to near Levers Hause where views toward Levers Water and Coniston open up.
Levers Water and Coniston
Brim Fell sports quite the summit cairn
The Old Man is perfectly situated, sitting forwards of the other fells and offering spectacular views
Looking South from The Old Man
Dow Crag
The Southern Ridge was touched by mist
Dow Crag
Dow Crag summit has a scrambly moment or two which is nice.
Looking back to Dow Crag
Walna Scar summit cairn with White Maiden, the final Nuttall of the day, in the background
Having reached Walna Scar Road, it's relatively easy to bag the last two Nuttalls in the Coniston Range. A steady descent with a few steep moments at first leads back to Coniston. The last section is a ridiculously steep tarmac descent, a sting in the tail as one might say. The clouds had cleared by such time and the colours were fantastic.
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