Fun times in the Rhinogydd, Aran Fawddwy - 2nd and 3rd June 2018

I forgot to post last weeks, which is a shame as it was a cracking experience by all accounts, sadly there were a limited number of decent photos.
So onto this week... I had planned on a rest and staying closer to home but by midday Saturday the weather in pretty much all potential destinations was looking shonky. Granted The Peak District was looking OK but I didn't have any plans up my sleeve, perhaps a lesson learned there... Most of Snowdonia was also fairly poor but the Rhinogydd looked to be outside of the poor weather, so off I went on a whim.

4pm and I'm booted up at Graigddu-isaf. The car park is so remote you have to open two gates to drive to it! I decided I just about had the time to do the 'South Face of Rhinog Fawr' scramble, my first at a grade 2-.  I set off at maximum pace through the woods. Thinking I was crafty I avoided the signs and took the direct right of way over the winding forest track, after two minutes I was in a horrible bog. Not a great start but advancing out and back onto the forest roads I picked up pace again...

Rhinog Fawr looms ahead

closer

On reaching Bwlch Dwrs-Ardudwy, the fast pace slowed to a crawl as I figured out my line from the guidebook.  Basically to get to the base of the scramble the easiest line is up the foundations of an old wall then through boulders. Guidebook recommended. It's not a well-worn line and it's hard to spot the little bits of polish here and there. I didn't get many photos on the way up but I can say it was great fun and felt well off-piste, despite regular consultations with the guidebook affirming I was on the right line.
It had clearly been raining not so long ago so it was a tad unpleasant working through the wet bilberry, heather, and bogs between the slabs that very much characterise this corner of the world.

 looking up at the second section from the top of the first tier

The second tier was easier to navigate and most enjoyable.  The route is a fantastic way to sustain interest right to the top and isn't excessively exposed, but it does feel quite an adventure so I'd recommend building up experience on easier and more navigable routes before undertaking this. Scrambling is extremely dangerous and it is important not to fall off at any point.

views from the top towards the Llyn Peninsula

On topping out I was astonished by the quality of the views. As is characteristic of quite a few peaks in Snowdonia, the isolation and prominence make for extraordinary vistas.
I had a bite to eat but couldn't stop for long though as I was behind schedule already. I had to get back to the car, swap my gear and get back up to find a pitch for the night...

the trig point

Rhinog means 'threshold' and on this day it felt like the Rhinogydd marked a threshold in the weather conditions. West looked gorgeous but East looked overcast and broody.

somebody was already pitched up in the good spot at Llyn Du...

I headed back down as quickly as possible on the North side. On sighting someone already pitched up by Llyn Du I decided I would be heading to Llyn Morwynion for the evening. But first back to the car to swap gear.

It's notable how quiet the Rhinogydd are. I met zero people between the car and summit and about 4 on the way back!  Such a gorgeous place, it just goes to show that height doesn't mean everything and one doesn't necessarily need to go to the top of the country to have a fantastic and rewarding experience. Maybe the toughness of the terrain puts people off, but it's certainly underrated in my view.

I dowsed myself in smidge by the car as the sods were out in force. The combination of recent rain and little to no breeze meant it was prime time. I still feel itchy writing this three days later.

Back up I went headed to Llyn Morwynion.  The proximity to the footpath of around 250m gave me a false sense of security. Soon I was trailblazing through thick, saturated undergrowth and down and across steep banks and gullies to get to the lake. What a nightmare. It's not that I'd missed the path, it's that it's faint to non-existent... Maybe access is better from the West but from the East it's honestly slow going and hard work.

Gladly I reached one of the few flat-ish places by the lake before I lost daylight and proceeded to pitch up. I was on a downward slope of sorts, really it wasn't ideal or conducive to a good night's sleep. Despite this it's the most amazing remote and isolated place to spend the night. It doesn't feel like you are in the UK at all.  I reckon a touch more wind to deter the midges and I would consider going back.

Honestly I got hardly any sleep, perhaps a couple of hours. I got up around 4.30, sleep wasn't forthcoming and I was getting hungry.

I applied more insect repellent before leaving the protection of my tent and swiftly packing up and getting out of there. The spot is sheltered and with low winds after rain it's just midge central.

More trailblazing to get up and out from the Llyn and back to the path, my route this time lead me to the tops where I found a family of goats, a couple were fighting and it made quite the noise, the clatter of horns locking and the less victorious goat being lifted well into the air!

looking back towards the Llyn

Rhinog Fawr in a morning haze

As I made my way down through the woods to the car I heard a cuckoo in the distance and everything seemed perfect. Snowdonia really is my favorite place to be. One day I will move here. I'm already learning Welsh...

On reaching the car I still didn't know what the plan was for the day. I rather wanted to hit scrambling country in the North but it looked a bit bleak over that way.  I decided to head South to Dolgellau to source lunch and a bottle of Coca Cola which I had been craving for about 15 hours and whilst I usually avoid sugary drinks like the plague I felt I deserved a treat.

Checking the met office forecast on Cadair Idris and Aran Fawddwy I decided on the latter as it had the most acceptable forecast.  A quick google and I established that Aran Fawddwy is best ascended from Cywarch, where there is a car park.  It was about 8.30 so I reckoned could still claim a parking spot among the li. Off I headed.

The scenery on route from Dolgellau is basically mind-blowing, after taking the single-track road up Cwm Cywarch I felt like I was properly in the back of beyond. What a magnificent find of a place.  I kitted up and chatted to a fellow ascendee before heading on up.  I knew and could see there were plenty of Nuttalls around to bag but I was in no mood for hill-bagging. There is a cracking circuit you can do heading up Creigiau Camddwr then along the Aran ridge to Aran Fawddwy, before heading back along Drysgol and down an old peat cutter's track which gently descends along the side of Hengwm. This seemed like the perfect outing.

 looking back down the route of ascent

at least in this corner of the World it was shaping up to be a tremendous day

The paths are obvious but look like they don't see too much traffic, it's a hillwalker's paradise...

There are many sections of quaint planks to over-pass the boggy ground

Despite what the OS map says, the path now sticks to the right of the fence and these stiles, which appear to be mating, can be left alone

The mooch along the ridge and steady climb up to the summit of Aran Fawddway are a pure pleasure. Maybe a couple of boggy bits but nothing the boots cant handle.  The whole route is such straightforward walking compared to the rocky stuff in the North, with less pedestrian traffic, it's just so easy going and soothing for the soul.

On topping out I was treated to the most breathtaking views. Some of the best I have ever known. This is the highest point in mid-Wales, South Wales too for that matter, and as such looking South gives a proper 'top-of-the-World' vibe.  Northwards are cracking views across most of Snowdonia.

This bird of prey proudly parades around the summit. He or she seems un-perturbed by people

Thinking about it, I honestly haven't spent this long relaxing on a summit in all my life. The sun was shining, the breeze was gentle and the ground was dry. I lay admiring the view for a good while and after a quarter of an hour was joined by an interesting fellow with whom I chatted for about half an hour. A few other visitors came and went.  It's a heavenly place.

My route of descent passed a cairn built to commemorate the life of an RAF serviceman who lost his life in a lightning strike. Lightning is my worst fear and I thought about how scared he must have been to be in this place surrounded by a thunderstorm. A stark reminder for sure.

Looking back towards Cwm Cywarch. The descent path cuts a clear line across the steep valley side on the left

the memorial cairn

looking back towards Aran Fawddwy

The next section of path down to the bwlch / col between Drysgol and Waun Goch is grassy and you can basically fly down at warp speed. I crossed a tiny patch of boggy ground at the bottom before turning right onto the home stretch.  The path looks interminable but it's easy walking so you can maintain a decent pace. The downhill gradient isn't that steep so you can stride out all the way, but I reckon regulating speed (or 'engine-braking' if you will) must use different muscle groups to most other descents because by the end my legs felt broken!  No matter as it's then not far to the car anyway.

Hengwym is gorgeous

So another fabulous couple of days, this time completely unplanned and spontaneous, and all in places I have never before got around to visiting; all of which far exceeded all my expectations. Certainly this has inspired me to seek out more places beyond my usual haunts, but likewise I have found a new favourite or two in the process.

Hwyl!