20th March 2018, the second of three days in Snowdonia, I set off on foot from the Idwal Cottage hostel where I was staying to a chilly but magnificent morning with the sun rising along the Ogwen Valley and behind Tryfan.
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| First steps |
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| Looking over to Pen yr Ole Wen |
I walked along the A5, then instead of taking the well established path up along the wall to Milestone Buttress, I took the more adventureous route starting from the layby/car park. The snow obscured what there was of a path and I enjoyed working my way up the boulders. It probably takes a little longer to negotiate this route but I had plenty of time.
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| looking up, Milestone Buttress on the right |
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| Looking back over Llyn Ogwen |
I didn't take any more photos on the way up Tryfan. It was my second time up there and I was endeavouring not to repeat the same I made on my first ascent, which was just back in February of this year. This time, whilst there was a scattering of snow it was fresh and powdery in the most part, I didn't encounter hard ice and didn't need the crampons and ice axe as I was getting good traction with my hands and feet.
I didn't take any photos on the way up and I think this reflects on the level of my concentration - my phone went into my backpack to avoid damage from rocky terrain, and I forgot all about it!
I was determined not to turn right too soon when ascending up around the North Ridge from Milestone Buttress, last time I wound myself up in steep cliffy terrain and had to think and find my way out of a grim situation. I still managed to turn too soon though, despite this time following an obvious thoroughfare with polished rock and crampon scrapes it lead to a line which was a bit beyond me. After some pondering, swallowing pride, downclimbing and backtracking I was back underway. You can go wrong on the first section of Tryfan approaching the North Ridge from the West... I have 2 out of 2 times now. I was determined not to feel shaken and beat by the mountain on reaching the top this time, and this wasn't the start I wanted.
So onward, with pleasant scrambling and no serious difficulties. I passed the 'fake cannon', then eventually the cannon, onwards and upwards. Tryfan is very much a 'pick your own route' kind of mountain, which is awesome and frightening depending on where it takes you. I really enjoyed working my way up the rocky nose of the ridge. Eventually the North Tower loomed above.
'This is where many people become unstuck' - the advice from the BMC website echoed again in my mind. Last time I had a real nightmare here. This time I knew where to go, up the nose, left around the very top, drop into the notch at Nor Nor Gully and out the top. I got paranoid that I was on the wrong track about half way up and made my way back down, only to wind up back on the exact same route! Once I found the drop-down into Nor-Nor Gully I felt relief knowing all the serious challenges were behind. I scrambled on eventually reaching the summit, where I stopped for a well earned sandwich, meeting a couple of fellas who were heading back down via a snowy gully on the West side which they had come up and said 'wasn't that bad' which I guess is open to interperetation.
At least I reached the summit for the most part unshaken and ready for more, I was hoping to feel like I had mastered this beast, alas some more experience still required!
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| The view from the top was lovely |
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| Looking South |
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| Adam left, Eve right |
I didn't jump between the monoliths. I'm saving that one for another day...
I progressed onwards down the South Ridge, which is by far an easier route than the North Ridge, said hi to some passers by and reached Bwlch Tryfan. I stuck to the plan and turned West following the path down to Llyn Bochlwyd. A visual evaluation of Bristly Ridge affirmed that I wasn't ready for it, at least not in the icy conditions. It sits higher up than the bulk of Tryfan and as such was looking rather wintery...
On reaching Llyn Bochlwyd I took another comfort break then skirted around to the base of The False Gribin.
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| False Gribin centre-left, the not-so fales Gribin runs along the right |
The scambling ascent on False Gribin was thoroughly enjoyable, there was a real off-piste vibe and whilst there are some steeper sections nothing felt overbearing and I think any real obstacles are quite avoidable. Reflecting back if I do it again (which I will) I will probably take some of the bolder lines.
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| Looking back to Tryfan from the top of False Gribin |
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| Llyn Bochlwyd in the foreground, Llyn Ogwen in the background |
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| Looking down the Ogwen Valley towards Bethesda |
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| Castell y Gwynt towers above |
The False Gribin flows directly into the top section of Y Gribin once you reach the meeting point of the ridges. I have previously ascended via scrambly path to the West of the ridge, primarily due to a strong Easterly wind making the ridge crest seem foolish. Being blessed this time with a lovely still day, it would have been a cop out not to do the crest. So I did and I'm so glad I did, I had a fantastic time and it was truly the highlight of the day! there are some lovely exposed sections if you want them. There's a magnificent bit near the end where you traverse up and left onto a slope which just has a sheer death drop directly below, it really is awesome!
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| Looking over to the next objective, Glyder Fawr |
Glyder Fawer is the highest of the Glyderau, and it is crowned with crazy rock formations which make it look so majestic. I think it's underrated.
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| Looking over to Snowdon from the summit of Glyder Fawr |
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| North-West, Y Garn in the centre with Elidir Fawr on the left |
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| Looking North-East to The Carneddau |
After soaking in the maginficent views fromt the highest point of the day's ventures, I made my way down towards Llyn y Cwn, which sits at the col between Glyder Fawr and Y Garn. On the way down the slope is convex and leads to a steep section which doesnt seem to get much daylight and freezes up into hard, icy snow. This patch was less significant than when I experienced it earlier in the winter and I only deemed use of the ice axe necessary to self belay, instead of using crampons, although it is steep and did feel a touch sketchy. Instead of staying on the ice-slope I cut steps to go across a few metres then descended down the scree. Whilst the scree is still lacking in traction, you cant go out of control, picking up speed like a runaway snowball in quite the same way as you would on the ice.
On reaching the bottom of this slope and Llyn y Cwn, I headed towards the Twll Du (Devils Kitchen) path. I was feeling peckish.... I meant to hit Y Garn, but the scrambling all takes longer than I anticipate and I wanted to preserve some energy for the third day's walking endeavours.
The path down into Cwm Idwal, whilst for the most part man made, is very steep and rocky, I personally rather enjoy figuring out the most efficient way down, it's like an interesting puzzle. You are treated to magnficient views all the way down, this kept my spirits up as my body was getting a touch weary by this point!
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| An icy obstacle at the head of the Twll Du path |
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| This frozen waterfall is a wonder to behold |
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| as cold as ice... |
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| Pen yr Ole Wen |
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| Looking back up, Twll Du is in the centre. It means 'black hole' but is known as the Devil's Kitchen. It's popular amongst hungry tourists... |
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| Y Garn |
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| Looking over towards the Carneddau |
I returned to the Hostel feeling tired but with a great sense of reward. I'd been out for about 12 hours. One of the most magnificent days scrambling and walking of my entire life, so far...
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